And I really do emphasize "traditional," because in our modern [*cough* American] society, we're so sure that the way things are are better than the way things were—that is to say, we're progressing. Now, I know this is a blog and I can go in any direction from this sort of set-up, but we are here to talk about food, so let me get to my point: we (as a nation) have convinced ourselves that "fillers" and "by-products" don't belong in hotdogs.
The Oxymoron
I will defend the hotdog because Jes
Hotdogs are sausages, and sausages are disgusting when, in modern thought, you dissect what exactly goes into them. First we'll start with the outer layer, because I'm sure you're all wary that this is traditionally intestines. International sausage markets abound in these "natural casings," but many hotdogs come "skinless." These are cooked in a casing to keep their shape (probably not intestines but something more synthetic), and the casing is removed before they're packaged and distributed. And that's actually one big difference between an American hotdog and a European sausage: pre-cooking.
Sausage-making is firstly a preservation technique, and second, it is about efficiency. As much as both of these pique my interest, I don't think I could get into DIY-sausage, though I know a few people who could and at least one who was in the business. But the natural casing isn't the only thing what makes this an efficient process. Just beneath that surface lay yummy treats that you would probably discard otherwise. They are, simply put, salted by-products.
Now, before we rush into the gory details, let me bring you back to the concept of an all-beef hotdog. Hebrew National, Jes's number-one choice. Reading through the Old Testament now, we can see some big reasons why those exist (Lev. 3.14-17). But a hotdog, a sausage, is by-products. It is a food item which makes use of the leftovers of a cut of meat, or an entire animal, depending upon how specific you get. If you're going to make a hotdog without by-products, not only are you now competing with the demand for meat, but I'd like to know where those by-products are ending up, because they've still got some nutritional value to them.
I'll eat all-beef hotdogs, about as regularly as I'd choose to eat real hotdogs, but if I wanted meat instead of by-product, I'd choose a steak or a rib or a drumstick. Or, you know, a burger. Unfortunately, it's all about experience, because once that food enters your gut, your body can't tell the difference.
In Gradients
The powers that be are friends of the American people. The Federal Trade Commission enforces the numerous laws, the Code of Federal Regulations governs manufacturing processes, and the USDA Food Standards systematize labeling policies. An ingredients list must comply with these policies which help consumers know what exactly is in the food they are buying without compromising company recipes. An extreme simplification of the distinction between "meat" and "by-products" on a label, in most cases, is 1 word or 2. BEEF? meat. BEEF FAT? by-product.
Now, using "BEEF FAT" as an example, let's look at what exactly is considered "meat." Meat is muscle, and all that this implies. Not all muscle is meat, but...well, actually, not all meat is muscle, either. Like the conversations about fruits and nuts (vs. vegetables and seeds, respectively), we're traversing between two institutions right now. Food regulations often refer to "meat" as "skeletal tissue." This means that, in most cases, meat is muscle joined to bone; such meat is also the attached bone itself, the tendons and nerves which may exist in between, attached blood vessels and particularly fat, etc. Non-skeletal tissue which is considered "meat" includes heart, tongue, and cheek, and excludes lips, snout, ears, brain, and particularly "significant portions of bone."
Beef fat, when attached to a cut of beef, is considered meat. This is mainly why you'll see cuts of meat with differing percentages of their fat content, since fat runs throughout muscle. Whilst they are together, such beef fat needs not be called out. It's when fat is trimmed off that it is now considered a by-product. Bones are treated similarly, because T-bone steaks and pork ribs and chicken drummettes would be insulted to be sold as including by-products.
Bones cross the line when the percentage of bone-to-meat is so great. I don't know how great; there are literal volumes expressing these guidelines. But I'm reminded of one ingredient in Slim Jims which had always puzzled me and now has been clarified: "mechanically separated chicken." Doesn't that just make you wonder if Slim Jims—which can be considered sausages—are safe? Will there be bits of metal in your next bite? Let me clear the confusion by saying, the whole regulation behind the mechanical separation of meat [from bone] limits the amount of bone bits (< 3%) allowable, as measured by the resulting product's calcium content (< 0.75%).
It's also helpful, and interesting, to note that "mechanically separated beef" is considered inedible and unsafe for human consumption, because if the bone in question happens to be the skull, separation by automated means is not trustworthy enough to ensure that contamination from BSE (mad cow disease) is avoided. Keep that in mind the next time you order ox tongue.
The heart, though an organ, consists of muscular tissue. It is, therefore, considered meat; however, it must be clearly labeled and cannot simply be called out as BEEF, etc. Chicken hearts tend to be the most popular among these.
Most other organs filter toxins or secrete enzymes or hormones, such as the kidney, pancreas and brain (these are considered animal by-products). Lungs are also muscular, but in America they are considered unsafe for human consumption. This ban is decades strong and has gained much opposition (particularly from Scottish people), but the reasoning behind it is simply the likelihood of contaminants, whether we are talking air pollution (ammonia inhalation) or butchering practices (referring to "fluid upheaval").
De-Livered
"Foie gras" literally means "liver fat." The French standard is a highly controversial method of force-feeding ducks and geese in order to grow their livers, up to 1,000% in most cases. Livers have a natural ability to store fat, so these animals are fed a slurry of corn and fat in steadily increasing amounts until the day the axe comes down. As horrendous as it sounds, much care actually goes into ensuring the fowl don't die of natural causes, or rather, natural responses to unnatural circumstances.
Outside of France, such "quality" is likely not kept, and there are even some 100%-natural methods. For instance, in this part of America, we all know about the migratory flights of ducks and geese. Before embarking on such extensive journeys, they will consume more food—similar to hibernating animals—in order to store up fat. (Fat in the body is an energy reserve, which is tapped into when the body needs it most. I presume this is why exercising burns fat.) Well, utilizing this truth, some companies simply time slaughter when the livers are naturally at their largest. While significantly smaller than force-fed fowl, the means are certainly less controversial.
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| Jerm's Foie Gras |
My brother is a gastronome. He will try anything once, if it is rated high enough to be enjoyed. My mother, on the other hand, will try anything if you do not tell her what it is. She occasionally treats her palate to chicken livers, and she may have actually tried the above-pictured. I, however, being wary of an organ which is purposed in absorbing toxins in the body, did not indulge myself at the time. Though, if you are reading this, Jerm, I might now reconsider—if only to try it.
Our mom would not eat beef liver, simply because of how unappetizing it looks due to its sheer size as a whole. Chicken livers? much more tamable in that regard.
I recall, quite vividly, an episode of Doug where Patti Mayonnaise was throwing a dinner party. On the menu? liver and onions. This was easily Doug's least favorite meal, but since he had a crush on Patti, the entirety of the episode looked at Doug conquering his fear and ultimately realizing that it wasn't so bad. Of course, when it came time to attend the party, Doug discovered that liver and onions wasn't really on the docket. Patti admitted it was a joke all along, because she knew how much he hated it. Ah, the things we'll do for love.
Mincemeat
My mother also used to eat lamb kidneys in her youth. She blames the "that looks good" syndrome, specifically where a child is tempted by a parent's food. (I've stolen many bananas with this excuse.) Her father used to cook them, and one way or another she used to eat them; though she wouldn't return to them nowadays.
Personally, I've never knowingly eaten any organ—whether a blood-filtering kidney or a sachet of giblets. There is an "ew factor" involved which many in my generation tend to consider, so I can relate to people who shiver to think of these things. But, I'm left to wonder how it is that older generations, or even simply other cultures, have come to appreciate such foods.
Chicken feet—I remember the first time I'd seen the package and thought, "How do you eat those?" Tripe—the curious "white meat" in the beef section. Pickled pigs' feet—well, it can't taste bad if it's a pickle. Spam—short for "spoiled ham"? Headcheese—100% non-dairy, 100% unappetizing.
Just about the only unknown conglomerate I would eat is bologna. Jes hates it, mostly because of the obviously processed texture, but I have no qualms with it, nor even olive-loaf. When my uncle clued me in that bologna is made from the meat of a male bovine, I laughed as the epiphany struck me. How had I never seen it? If it's baloney, it's full of bull.
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